A little more about thread...
Choosing the right thread to use for your beadwork is so important! The thread becomes the (mostly) invisible force that holds the beadwork together--it is the force that binds tiny bits of glass into a fabric of light and color.
When I first started to explore
bead weaving in the 1990s, I knew enough to realize that I couldn't just use sewing thread. Sewing thread is excellent for sewing, but it isn't engineered for bead weaving: it is too thin, it frays easily, breaks easily, and gets tangled up in knots way too easily. Nymo thread was universally used in the 1990s for bead weaving, and I used it for a long time. I still have jewelry made with Nymo thread. But it was never a pleasure to use. Nymo is a nylon thread; it comes in many colors and several sizes (diameters). Even if you condition Nymo first (and you should always condition your thread), it loves to get tangled up in knots and it is
very easy to split the thread with your needle as your work. If you have split the thread with the needle, it becomes very difficult to pull out your work if you later discover you have made a mistake. And we all make mistakes! Either the thread is "caught" because it has been split (and you end up having to cut it to fix a mistake) or it becomes hopelessly weakened when you do manage to pull it out. Nymo is also slightly stretchy and this makes it a poor choice for novice beaders who haven't mastered thread tension yet; they may be disappointed when the weight of the beads stretches the thread and loosens their work.
Silamide is a twisted nylon thread (2-ply) and so stronger than Nymo and more resistant to fraying. It comes in several colors and sizes and it is already waxed. I like it better than Nymo thread because it is less prone to knotting and fraying, but it can also be split with the needle and it can be hard to find in bead stores.
I assume one of the influential bead weaving teachers out there has some connection with fly-fishing, because suddenly about a dozen years ago everyone started using Fireline for all types of bead weaving. Fireline is made by Berkley and it is a fishing line. Berkley describes it as a thermally fused
superline that "changed fishing forever." Believe me, it has changed bead weaving forever, too! Berkley says: "It is simply the strongest, most abrasion-resistant superline in its class!" Strong: yes, this is really strong thread; I can't break it with my hands no matter how hard I pull. Occasionally, the sharp edge of a Czech bugle bead will snap Fireline, but used with seed beads and even crystals, it won't break. Abrasion-resistant: yes, it withstands multiple passes through crystals. Even if you have to pull it out (remember those mistakes we talked about?) it usually maintains integrity and can be rethreaded on the needle. It will take a lot of abuse before it starts to fray. Superline: yes, it is super! and virtually impossible to split it with a needle. Of all the threads I have tried, pulling out a mistake is easiest with Fireline.
Recently some new Japanese nylon threads have become available: OneG, SoNo, and KO. They are similar to Nymo. I have tried the K.O. thread and find that it is too soft for bead weaving. It might work well for a piece that you want to be extremely soft and flexible, but I don't use it for more "architectural" bead weaving, where you are building a structure of beads. Some people recommend these Japanese threads for bead embroidery. I imagine they would work well for that, but I usually use Fireline for bead embroidery as well!
So, back to Fireline: use 6 lb. for most bead weaving; you will be able to make many passes through seed beads. Use 8 lb. for bead weaving that uses Czech bugle beads or other beads with very sharp edges; it is a little stronger (and thicker). I have used 10 lb. for stringing projects and it works well. If many passes through tiny size 15ยบ beads are needed, 4 lb. Fireline comes in handy. I use the smoke color for almost everything; I use the crystal color if most of the beads are white or very light, or for some transparent beads. You can also run crystal Fireline over a Sharpie marker, let it dry, and repeat, to make thread of almost any color. Fireline doesn't stretch, which is a good thing! And because it has a little bit of stiffness to it, if I pull tightly after each stitch, it has some "memory" and stays put.
One more thing...Fireline is more expensive if you buy it on small spools sold specifically for bead weaving. Buy a large spool (125 yds. or 300 yds.) sold to fishing enthusiasts--it is exactly the same thing and less expensive!
Janet Palumbo
